Top 5 tips for installing pet-friendly artificial grass
If your backyard’s more paw prints than people lately, you’re not alone. We work with a lot of dog-loving households, and one thing they all have in common? They’re tired of muddy patches, worn-out lawn, and the constant battle to keep things clean. That’s where artificial grass designed for pets really shines.
But here’s the catch… It’s not just about rolling out some turf and calling it a day. The difference between a lawn that lasts and one that lifts, smells or gets patchy often comes down to the installation. So here are five things we always focus on when we’re creating a low-maintenance, pet-friendly lawn that’s built to last.
1. Get the ground right
We’ve pulled up our fair share of old turf, and trust us, what’s underneath matters just as much as what goes on top. Start by clearing the area completely. We use a sod cutter to strip out existing grass, roots, and anything else that could mess with the foundation. Leaving organic material behind can lead to sinking or smells later on.
Once it’s clear, we level everything out. A smooth, even surface prevents water from pooling (which is a big win if you’ve got a dog that loves to dig in muddy corners). We usually bring in a laser level for bigger areas, but even a landscaping rake and a bit of patience can go a long way on smaller spaces.
2. Choose turf that’s made for paws
Not all artificial grass is the same and we’ve seen some shockers out there. For pet areas, we only recommend products that are specifically designed with pets in mind. That means non-toxic materials, good drainage, and ideally, a turf that includes antimicrobial protection to help with odour control.
The other thing we consider is blade height and density. Go too short, and the lawn can feel harsh underfoot. Too long, and it flattens quickly. We’ve found a medium blade length paired with high density is the sweet spot. Soft enough for lounging, tough enough for zoomies.
You can find out more about artificial grass types here.
3. Build a solid base
This is the step that often gets skipped with DIY jobs and it’s where things start to go wrong later.
We always install a crushed rock or road base layer, around 50 to 100mm deep depending on the site. It’s not just about stability; it’s also about drainage. You want any liquids to move through the base and away from the surface quickly.
Then we compact it. Really compact it. A plate compactor is a must here. You’ll know it’s right when it feels like walking on packed dirt, not loose gravel. A solid base is what keeps your lawn looking fresh year after year, even if it’s copping daily traffic from an excitable staffy.
4. Lay and secure it properly
Once your base is ready, it’s time to roll out the turf. We give it a bit of time to settle—it helps with creases and makes trimming easier. One thing we always do is make sure the grass blades all run in the same direction. It sounds minor, but visually, it makes a huge difference.
When it comes to cutting edges and joining sections, we’re precise. No jagged cuts, no loose seams. We use high-quality joining tape and adhesives that are built for outdoor use. It’s the kind of detail work that stops your edges from lifting when your dog goes tearing after a ball.
5. Don’t skip the infill
This part’s often misunderstood, but it plays a key role in how your lawn performs over time. For pet-friendly installs, we generally use washed silica sand. It gives the grass structure, helps the blades stand tall, and improves drainage.
We apply it evenly with a drop spreader, then brush it in with a stiff broom. It’s a bit of elbow grease, but it’s worth it. The lawn ends up looking natural, feeling soft underfoot, and staying cleaner for longer.
